Lots of ways to go about it and you will get various takes on the same job from different folks. Personally, I happen to really like DOLPHINITE for sealing the wood leveling block to deck joint. Screws only from below deck up into the wood block would likely be sufficient and will leave you with an undisturbed upper face on the block to attach the deck iron to.....but 4 long through bolted #12 bronze machine screws would not be bad either? Getting things apart down the line may be a bigger priority than bullet proofing the fittings with through bolting so the whole vessel could be towed by just attaching a rope to the deck iron? The day in day out forces are pretty minimal? For the bronze iron to wood block joint, high temp RTV silicone would be a good choice. Please don't tighten the iron's fasteners too much so as to squeeze out the silicone thus making a "thin" joint. Keep the iron filled with fresh water when in use. On the wood leveling block front I'm working on making teak/mahogany blanks available to suit various deck cambers. This is the one item that I know is a pain for most folks to have to build and having various blocks available would speed the install process. Any feedback from folks on this option?
Date: September 9, 2009 10:43:24 PM EDT
Subject: Re: [morganowners] On Board Heat
I have a Sardine woodburning stove in my boat, and it does a fantastic job of keeping the v-berth and center cabin warm in the winter. We fuel it with chemical logs cut in half, but it's also run fine on scrap plywood, flooring, driftwood, etc. We installed it in the fore corner of the center cabin, with the pipe running up through the deck (not the roof deck, the step deck). The water-filled bronze hoozit in the deck does an excellent job of keeping the pipe heat from getting through to the fiberglass, even when the pipe is running red-hot. Never had problems with spray and wave slop getting down into the pipe either. Used copper hammered over gypsum/fiberglass wallboard as radiant reflectors on 3 sides of the stove.